15V 0.46A - Nintendo Switch Not Powering On | Water Damage

Nintendo Questions Nintendo Switch
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I was previously recommending people to get the KSGER T12 station as in terms of price to performance they couldn’t be beat, combined with the T12 cartridges being more efficient, less prone to oxidation and the station being capable of setting a calibrated temperature profiles per tip shape made this a no brainer

Unfortunately there more recent FW versions they’re using on these stations have really screwed things up leading to calibration issues etc this can now be resolved by installing the open source CFW but requires a bit of effort with an ST link to carry out the procedure. Don’t really know what to recommend people these days which works well out the box at least on the T12 front…

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Hey guys, hope you’re both doing okay! :slight_smile:

Sorry I haven’t replied on here for a while, I tried a couple of different things with the Switch. I still haven’t looked at the EMMS module, but I’m still getting 0.15A on a charge with battery plugged in. Think it’s safe to say I’ve broken this Switch even further!

I also attempted my first Nintendo Switch USB-C Charging Port replacement on the weekend, and completely messed that up. I wasn’t able to get any of the solder out from the back pins, regardless of using low melt, different wicks, hot air station, plenty of flux, and even using a solder sucker. I also ripped one of the pads after the 6th try.

Thankyou both for your help on the first switch, I really appreciate the time you have put into this post :slight_smile:

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Hi there!

Yeah, I spotted the video, do you have any of the “ChipQuik” low melt solder? Its a god-send on getting these ports out. Also, I would recommend aiming the hot airgun at the area just above the port, rather than at the port itself when putting them back on. You will heat the board enough to melt the solder (assuming you are using good leaded solder), and it should prevent you melting the port itself.

On the first swtich, I still feel that connecting it to a PC with the emmc removed to see if it is detected would be a good thing to try, as it will tell you if the CPU itself is good.

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So all I have to do is remove the EMMC and connect to a PC with USB? Should it then recognize as something on the machine, or do I have to download software to detect it?

I’ve just had a look on amazon and the cheapest is £20! I’m going to give it another go with some better wick, solder and solder sucker that I’ve just purchased :slight_smile:

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Hey again man,

Don’t beat yourself up in regards to the USB, You have to do it wrong the first time to get it right the next time :wink:

Agree with Insomniac using low melt solder on the through hole portion of the USB, then use a chunky tip and wick out the low melt so the holes are clear (or near clear) , then as Insomniac said hot air on the board directly below the pins, very roughly (depends on your station cal) a temp of 320C and lowest air won’t melt the USB, but it’s directly proportional to air speed, 150C max air will melt them if that makes sense. Then just a case of prepping the pads and going in reverse, it also helps to tin the inner USB pins/pads directly if your finding you can’t get enough solder on the boards pads and doubly ensures a good reflow operation.

You can get metre lengths of low melt solder on eBay for a few quid from UK sellers which is of better quality than the Chinese claimed alloys, it doesn’t typically come flux cored so you have to add quite a bit of flux externally

You can get a big roll of the chipquik 63/37 stuff for about 13 quid (last I checked) on Mouser, can add a few more bits and bobs and get free delivery for orders over 30 i think

Solder suckers wont help you here unfortunately, at least in my experience, decent wick will be a good call, saturate it in flux prior to hitting it with the iron on top.

Avoid using low melt as a substitute for regular leaded solder on the pads and through hole portions when prepping to put the connector back on, low melt doesn’t have the strength or current carying capabilities of standard leaded.

I think a lot of your troubles are related to your soldering iron, I would recommend something like this
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32820505482.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.5779d793eFxjOt&algo_pvid=0963fcbb-47dc-4a17-9a8d-2d4e2fc7f7a6&algo_exp_id=0963fcbb-47dc-4a17-9a8d-2d4e2fc7f7a6-0
though be warned I here they are now coming with a dodgy FW preinstalled, and it seems up in the air which one they ship it with (despite what the listing might say) and it will require some manual work to resolve by flashing a CFW to it, I’d go for the SS or alu handle type version

I use a JL02 type tip (which is one of the T12 finest types) and have no issues prepping the USB pads with just that at 420C so should be a good choice for you :+1:

So the EMMC is the storage for the OS, without it the console won’t boot or fast charge. did you check the LCD connector for bent pins? as if I remember correctly it was 0.4A prior to reassembly in the case?

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Yup, you will want to install TegraRcmGUI, and have that install the driver. Once done, and with it open. The image should turn from red to green when it detects a switch in RCM mode (which it will be, as the EMMC has been removed). Obviously, you have now removed and put the port back on, so there is the possibility there are issues there now, but as it charges both ways that’s a pretty good sign. Hopefully it will connect in at least one direction.

With the chip-quik, £20 is good, it lasts pretty much forever. I really avoided it due to cost for ages, but its easily worth it. Without it, you need to make sure your solder is leaded, and then you can mix that in instead, get a load of it in there to really dilute the crap that was there to start with.

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Hey Insomniac :slight_smile:

The software states “RCM O.K”!

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Nice! Then its certainly not dead! If you inject the Hetake5.0.0 payload, does it report 0x0000 or 0x7000 ?

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Hey Insomniac :slight_smile:

It’s coming back as 0x0000 and I now have a blue screen of death because I swapped the backlight ribbon cable.

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Ah, that’s… not great. So 0x0000 means that it is a patched unit, so we won’t be able to inject anything to help diagnose.
I presume the blue screen is when trying to boot rather than in rcm mode? There are a couple of things that could cause it that you should probably work through. Severance walked me through it in one of my threads recently so maybe take a look at that? I posted in it yesterday so it should be easy to find.