Hello! It’s my first post here, I have been watching TronicsFix videos on Youtube for a while and I wanted to try to fix Nintendo Switches hello from Switzerland, nice to meet you all!
I purchased a lot of 4 Nintendo Switch that did not turn on, and I’ve been able to fix 3! But the last one seems like a lost cause. I just wanted to see if you agree with me before I declare it unfixable and use it as a donor board.
Here are my observations so far, feel free to correct me if I’m wrong on my assumptions:
- As soon as I plugged it in, it made a horrible buzzing noise coming from the APU, so I did not try to plug it again after because I did not want to definitely fry it
- The capacitor below M92T36 is shorted, I think it is this one that likely means the APU is faulty?
- The capacitor on the left of M92T36 is also shorted, I think this one can mean either PI3USB or APU is faulty?
- The other capacitors near M92T36 seem ok, so there’s a chance that M92T36 itself is good and I could use it as a donor?
- The capacitor below PI3USB is shorted, I think this also means either PI3USB or APU is faulty?
- Also the rightmost filter above PI3USB has the left lane that is broken, I think this is common when PI3USB fails?
- Finally, since I was pretty sure there was a problem with the APU, I removed the metal shield, and the APU is not centered, so it would indicate to me that someone tried and failed to reflow it? Or did anyone ever see an off-center APU like that in a working Nintendo Switch?
Here are pictures:
I think what I will do next is to remove PI3USB, retest the short below, remove the one shorted cap, retest the short, remove M92T36, retest the short, remove the 2 shorted caps, and if the short is still here then it means it’s definitely the APU?
Should I test something else before trying anything?
Thanks a lot in advance for your help