hope someone can help me like last time when I had to replace the P13USB. This time my nephew told me that he get no signal while in dock mode. So I opened it up and replaced the P13USB once more. First it didn’t work, because I guess the P13USB was off for one PIN on only one side (short side where the dot is). Now it looks good:
I did it again with the same chip and now dock mode works. But while assembling it and testing it several times I noticed that in handheld mode the LCD stays black.
Then I saw, that the LCD connector have bend PINs. I guess I damaged it and now the question is what else I did damage. After replacing the LCD connector I still have a black screen. The backlight goes on but the screen stays black.
I never replaced a connector before, but I guess I managed to put it on decent enough.
VOUT-1 and VOUT-2 are +0.022 and +0.156V in my case.
The “enable lines” have 1.8V and the A1 connected capacitor got 4V. I also unplugged the battery and measured 358 Ohm on VOUT-1 and 7.92 kOhm at VOUT-2. I’ve a working Nintendo Switch at hand which measures around 357 Ohm on VOUT-1 and 7.12 kOhm on VOUT-2. Also both show -5.4V at VOUT-1 and +5.4V at VOUT-2. Thus the values seems to be comparable. At A1 the working Switch has 3.7V.
So I don’t know how to process further. What does 0V on both VOUT really mean? Is the 8316 broken?
B2, B3, A11, A10, B10, B11, A3 and A2 were all 0L and connected to the filters of P13USB. I checked all the values (in diode mode) with my working Switch and they were more or less the same.
After replacing the P13USB and the LCD connector B2 isn’t 0L anymore but shows a number of 0.001.
Thus I decided to remove the P13USB again to check if there is a short or something. But even after getting P13USB off, the B2 still shows a value and is not 0L.
It is this filter, B2 is connected on the probe side, B3 on the left of the probe:
I assume that your 0 in diode mode is a propper short to ground. I would remove the filter and check again at the usb c port side, if the short is gone.
Simple logic, the cap in between TX/RX choke filter/cut out DC voltage, so if you have short/low diode reading on “blue label”, you have PCB layer issue.
If short/low diode reading on “yellow label” side, check your usb port if pin mango inside or remove the filter and see if it was the filter internal short
thank you both for your efforts helping me. I’m really sad but I guess I found the problem with the B2 ↔ filter short to ground. First I removed the filter but the short was still present. I even then removed the LCD connector again. Measuring continuity between B2 and ground did beep. Then I thought I’ll test with another USB-C tester because I have two of them. And the second one showed 0L and did not shorted to ground. I then checked it with the working Switch and the first USB-C tester shorted there too. Testing the USB-C tester outside the Switch does not beep but as soon as I put it in either Switch it short. Thus I guess that was a false alarm. I’m really sorry that this wasted your time.
But the original problem is still present. No output in handheld mode. No +/-5V on VOUT-1 and VOUT-2. Do you have any idea what to check next? Should I remove the diode near VOUT-1 and check the diode outside?
