Well that took a while lol. Followed the guide and created new boot0, redid all the partitions and am able to load cfw and stock from hekate but nothing from off. Clicking reboot when in stock (through hekate) reboots and screen goes off.
In ChoiDujour in cwf i get error 2144-001 (0x290) if that means anything so have to use daybreak to update fw etx
I used emmhaccgen to create the files as choi came up with errors on the keys file, think there were too many on it so used the other option
Hmm, would guess P13 (or install) or USB issues, I would verify USB to destination continuity using a breakout board.
I donāt think so, not unless some I/O was bridged together or there was a short to ground on itās VIN
What FW version are you currently on?
Choi PC is quite fussy about the keys used and the way itās formatted and also the FW. though EMMCHaccGen should have prduce ultimately the same files
I tried various firmwares and still the same error on choi nx, daybreak worked and so did rebuilding the boot0 etc, tried various tutorials and still same result, can boot custom and original from hekate but not from off. Thinking it may be some hardware issue preventing boot so am going to reflow p13 and m92 and see if it makes any difference before trying software solutions again as going round in circles and getting the same result. Cant see why it wouldnāt boot if it can run ofw from hekate unless something is preventing boot. once P13 is done ill recheck dock and see if that at least is fixed and if it makes a difference to booting.
Yeah I think so too
Out of interest, does lockpickRCM throw any errors at all?
I suppose your could remove the P13 IC entirely, the console should still boot without it under normal circumstances.
I think Hekate has an EMMC benchmark test, might be worth checking the speed of it and making sure it compares within reason to a known good, pretty sure HOS wonāt boot if some of the data lines which allow for higher speed transfers are open, though not sure why Atmosphere/stock via Hekate would still work in this case.
Morning @Severence
Lockpick shows no errors
Reflowed P13, checked filters - ok, checked filters to caps and caps to p13 - ok
Replaced usb-c port as was starting to act up one way round on usb connect - tested ok with usb-c breakout board
replaced m92 - still charging same as before and booting from hekate to stock and custom
On docking, screen turns off but still no display on tv
see below emmc screenshots - no known good to test against that is exploitable
Hey,
Iād probably lift it and reprep all pads from scratch just incase somebody prior has done a bad job, might also be worthwhile testing when the IC is removed incase itās causing the issues (though donāt think it is tbh) I suppose if the surrounding components are good, the IC itself is good, then that would just leave the corresponding lines to the SoC at fault 
I think @Calvin did a diode map of the P13 area which might be worth checking if you can find it or if he can provide, and I would check at the board pads itself so you can see if the IC is not making proper contact with the board 
Very odd behaviour indeed, I suppose at the very least you have a semi usable test console which can boot stock/CFW via Hekate, though it would be good to know specifically whatās wrong with it
your EMMC speedtest, I canāt remember what normal results should be, hopefully somebody else with an unpatched unit on hand can chime in here to confirm
I did actually take the P13 off and redid the pads, reseated it then touched it up with soldering iron.
All diode readings match within tolerance with my meter but the one resistor below is reading between 150k and 1mohm but the one next to it is reading right at 4.7k so that will be my next job to swap that over and see if it makes a difference. If not Iāll remove the P13 chip amd test again
For what itās worth, when Iāve got a fuse mismatch, I go via Hekate and boot Stock and simply do an OS update from Horizon. That tends to bring fuses in line. Iāve never had much luck manually building an OS update with those tools. There is little risk of a ban doing this as all you are effectively doing is jumping the fuse check. Everything else is invisible to Horizon.
Sheriff
Thanks @SheriffBuck
Iāll give that a go when Iāve replaced the resistor.
Do I need to factory reset it before connecting to WiFi on stock through hekate so the original owners data isnāt on there or will that not affect the likelyness of being banned?
Fuse mismatches usually occur in the opposite directionā¦ IE: somebody connects an EMMC module which is on a higher OS version which burns the fuses, afterwhich the original EMMC on the lower OS is unable to boot as a result, your case is different, the OS version is higher on your matched EMMC VS the burnt fuse count.
The fuse should burn the moment the console is prompted to boot, we already know the OS (partitions) are fine etc as you can boot via Hekate, updating the console through Nintendo wonāt change anything Iām afraid aside from risking a ban
If it was previously modified on Sysnand then likely the previous owners data/games isnāt legit, I would factory wipe/initialize it anyway
Iāll check that resistor at P13 and see what it is, though aside from dock functionality I donāt think itās the primary issue
Just been looking over the datasheets to see if that āresistorā could be the issue when I realized that I misread the diagram and it is actually a capacitor so no wonder it doesnāt read 4.7k 
I have another p13usb so will remove the one thatās on it currently and retest without it, then if I get anywhere try it with the other IC.
Just went to take off the P13USB IC and had a scan round the area first and found a bridge highlighted in the below image, removed it and the switch docks both ways round with a USB-C HDMI adapter so thatās fixed, just need to get is booting from off - which it still isnāt. I have factory reset and get to the attach controllers screen but still waiting on a left joycon rail so cannot proceed further but it still doesnāt boot from off.
As everything else is now working as it should, when I get on to set it up, if I donāt sign in but connect to WIFI with no SD Card in to do an official update what are the chances of a ban (if not already banned)? Is it worth trying as really donāt know what else to try?
Great news bud, maybe itād be worthwhile posting a hi-res shot front and back of the board perhaps we can spot something out of the ordinary like with the bridge on those caps which could possibly be holding it up
Pretty slim now itās wiped but up in the air whether anything is logged, some say yes, some say no and I havenāt taken the time to check various tools source to verify. but Iāll typically wipe first with the homebrew tool here
Then follow it up with the stock factory erase/initialize
In my eyes Iām 99.9% sure it wonāt make a difference, daybreak is effectively 1:1 with stock system update and the core FW files avaliable online are the very same as the ones which are downloaded from the Nintendo servers
Another thing which springs to mind, if you connect the console to a PC without the jig, does is show up as in RCM mode?
Thanks again and really chuffed that I have got this far, may have taken a while but so worth it to me.
Couldnāt have got this far without the help of this forum.
Powering on with usb to pc does nothing and nothing shows in Device Manager
I have restored from backup then downgraded to 8.1 as I read if you log on with a different firmware from Nintendoās last record you could face a ban so now running 8.1 which matches fuse count.
Ill take some photos tomorrow and post them for you to check, maybe I have missed something or there were more components missing than I originally found.
Haku33 is in the homebrew menu so if all else fails ill try that followed by a factory reset and see if that helps.
Without the jig, I take it it doesnāt show up in TegraRCMGUI either? Iād also try prompting with the power button also while USB is connected and also try both USB orientations just in case, it should in theory be in some form of recovery state without jig present, though your case is somewhat different to the usual.
I use this tool on any unpatched console prior to updating, whether it does anything differently from a regular systsem initialize is up in the air, but doesnāt hurt
Tried all those and nothing. Havenāt got round to taking decent photos yet but going backwards again now, just when I thought I was nearly there it throws me another curveball. Got the new joycon rail and left controller still doesnāt Dock. Checked for continuity on the ribbon and all there. Checked controller in a working switch and it docks fine. Replaced the connector on the motherboard and still no. Replaced the dc chip on the back and still no. The fan spins up so not same issue as some have had where it affects the fan. At a loss now as no idea what else to try. Tried u pairing and repairing, restarting, etc. Bluetooth connects fine but when I reset the switch software I canāt proceed any further as it requires both controllers to be docked.
I know I said I was enjoying this fix but itās now starting to drive me mad as its one thing after another 
This is potentially a good thing as it may be the hardware fault which is holding up stndard boot
I would check diode/resistance readings relative to ground on this connector and compare to your known good, check in both polarities, chances are something will be off and hopefully lead you to the actual culprit
Haha I understand, this hasnāt been very forgiving for your first few Switch board repairs
Fingers crossed this leads me to the main fault 
Iāve taken readings but no access to a working one at the moment and donāt want to take apart my sons working one just yet so below are my readings I anything stands out, if not I will have to open his to compare
Brown = ground? / 4ohms
Pink = 0.396v / fluctuates from 10k to over 100k
Purple = 0.566v / 230K
Blue = 0.592 / 2.1M ohm
Red = OL / 1.8M ohm
Diode marked red (looks like a cap) is OL or 1.36v with black on ground
Yellow = 0.561 / 12K
White = OL both ways and get OL on resistance but get continuity to the pad below
Any thoughts or do I need to take my sons apart 
