Was wondering if anyone knows what this chip is called or who makes it. I am finding these will also cause no video output from the Console. I Have had 3 Xbox One S in a row with the same burnt out chip.
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Would be handy to know as well what it is, I’ve got a One S that I have replaced the Retimer on but still getting black screen (signal detected though) and I am thinking this part is also faulty
I would put my money on it being some sort of linear voltage regulator IC.
Currently working on a One S with no signal. Replaced the retimer with no change, then started looking into this, which is an STMicroelectronics HDMI2C4-5F2. The capacitor that filters the output to pin 18 on the HDMI connector was shorted to ground which made the IC fail. Have a few on order now which will hopefully fix this specific console. I replaced the capacitor with one from a donor board, but unfortunately I don’t have the value on hand at the moment. I will update later once my new meter that can measure capacitance arrives.
Just to update, I’m not sure on the cap value as it’s too low for my meter. Replacing this IC + the retimer got it working again.
I’m really curious on this one too - I’ve got 5 boards doing the same thing - HDMI port checked, retimer replaced and still getting no display. Monitor won’t even lock on to any signal output. I know the console is working underneath as I can hear the hard drive churning, and I get the two flashes of the power LED to indicate it’s at the “Something went Wrong” screen. I’ve checked all my boards and I’m not showing any shorts on any of the caps around the IC referenced above.
i bought a raft of these from Mouser electronics. you see them for sale on ebay from time to time for about ÂŁ8-10 but they were 46p each
their part number on mouser is HDMI2C4-5F2 (mouser part number 511-HDMI2C4-5F2)
I had a fault today where the box was stuck in 640*480 and no sound through hdmi - wasnt the retimer or this chip - but a 2k resistor (R8B1) had gone low (<600ohm) just next to this small chip)
I realize that this thread is a bit old but I have a similar issue and suspect a bad HDMI2C4-5F2. My Xbox One S has been very gently used in a clean environment. After running into the black screen issue I replaced the HDMI retimer chip (no change), the HDMI port (no change), and the retimer chip a second time but the issue persists. The filters (EG8B6 and EG8B7) ohm out fine and there are no shorts on the HDMI port or the retimer. The resistor and caps near the retimer ohm out OK.
Here’s where it gets weird. Of the nine resistors that are in the area of U8B1 six read 0 ohms.
R8B3: 0 ohms
R8B1: 2K ohms
R8B2: 0 ohms
R8B9: 0 ohms
R8B10: 2K ohms
R8B11: 10k ohms
R8B7: 0 ohms
R8B4: 0 ohms
R8B6: 0 ohms
It seems pretty unlikely that this many resistors would have failed and I’m guessing that U8BI ( HDMI2C4-5F2) might be the culprit. Given the close proximity of the caps and resistors surrounding U8B1, it looks like replacing it might be a huge PITA. It would be reassuring to know if anyone has seen anything like this.
I tried uploading an image of the components in question but I get an error that I can’t embed media in my post
Hola amigo, si tienes una consola de xbox one s, y no da video, pueden ser varios problemas, el puerto hdmi, verifica que no esté dañado. Las bobinas que están antes del puerto de hdmi. El integrado 75dp159, que se encarga de transmitir la señal al hdmi. Y por último y me ha pasado, que este mal el disco duro de la consola.
hola mi amigo todo lo que acabas de decir es cierto para mi cuenta no funciona tengo di 3.3v pero no 5 v que se reemplaza por el 0.237v