A guy that I trust modded my switch oled two times, the first time everything worked well for about a month, after that the chip was burned and also the motherboard.
Last time it lasted like a week, I was playing in portable mod, the switch was a bit warm but nothing to worry about, I left it in the dock for three or four hours, when I picked it up, it won’t boot up, everything was burned again.
Can it be beacause of bad microsoldering or maybe is beacause the dock brings too much electricity, the electric socket where it’s attached is very old.
Sorry for my bad english but please help me, I don’t want to spend all my savings in motherboards.emphasized text
I don’t see that the original wall adapter let overcurrent through the usb c line.
What kind of mod chip is it?
What exactly burned at the mod chip and the motherboard?
Do you have pictures?
blew up 2nd time? then it wont be a blow up motherboard but just some excuses made up for the cheap dat0 adapter mod IMO
I can’t post pictures or links, how can I show you the photos?
Can you help me understanding what’s the problem? How can I show you the pictures of the motherboard?
UPLOAD picture to imgur.com and post link with space bar like imgur._com/x/**
Hello good evening I’m the guy who modified this Switch 2 times (I’m a technician and I deal with micro welds and mainboard repairs etc.) of which modchip effect on Switch v1/v2-lite-oled (for years) so now I’ll explain the situation a little, the DAT0 I used is one with 4 anchor points, obviously measured in diode mode even after the break and always measures between 500/800! All points are connected welds (as I use jbc station, flux chipquick, 60/40 tin and (AMSCOPE microscope), the board in question no longer starts and connecting it to the power supply marks 0.5A (I have already tried to replace the ic pawer but without any improvement). I am attaching photos of the connected modchip on the card! (Sorry for my English but I’m Italian)
I also attach the D0 adapter used (in the sart of my supplier one of the best)
I can’t put the imgur link, I don’t know why
imgur.com____/a/3BBHOfD
Add https:// and remove ____
Hi,
I’d point you back to @Calvin questions as they are important which you haven’t really addressed in your reply 
In regards to your install, it looks fine afaict… I’m not familiar with the flex PCB’s your using tbh as I’ve never bothered with them, I’d have thought if your going to all the trouble to use a flex PCB then the flex would make it’s way from the EMMC all the way to it’s destination (modchip)… otherwise what’s the point if you then have to tack a wire onto it after the fact 
so assuming the flex doesn’t go all the way to it’s destination and that is indeed the wire shown in the photos going all the way to the desitnation, then as an observation, it’s way too big/thick! giant antenna!
Pretty meaningless, can get good diode mode readings on bad lines / rails. I’d be checking my primary rails resistance relative to ground and comparing to a known good.
Depending on your answers to Calvins questions and rail checks, this is giving me bad EMMC vibes, though I think I recall @jkyoho mentioning that Hekate will still boot without EMMC / data, though if the EMMC is physically bad that could (and probably would) prevent this, also possible the modchip is toast too which if I recall is what happened in another recent thread which was very similar to this one.
Photos of what was “burned” is what I think Calvin was asking for and would probably be most useful, and also of the modchip and it’s install location etc (sometimes people will let the modchip or mosfets etc touch things they shouldn’t which can cause some of the issues I think you’ve mentioned)