Thanks
I checked about fuel gauge, as I read about it some time ago.
The 17050 right? Got some
Does it create Orange screen too? … the 17050.
I do not know how long battery normally last, but I calculated whole battery should last ~ 3H 10 min - I am guessing it is correct.
So, new battery is fine. I hopeit does calibrate, then if get problems will replace 17050…
You are correct, fuel gauge will need replacing, as it went once at 45% then back to 40% - as it was.
Right
Not that I know of. In this order orange screen would be, Wifi IC, SoC, PMIC as culprits, but usually it’s the Wifi IC
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OK, yes I did read about the wi0-fi one.
Currently Switch been on 2:23 Hours from 61% to 1% - pretty good!
Next I will let it re-charge with original PSU and hope to have time to try and fix a laptop with blown mosfet!
Not much work strangely …
I think discharging is working as it was on 1% for a while and went up to 6% and discharging, so chip has realised it was not at 1% = good!
This isn’t normal, switch will drop a handful of percent in idle/sleep and can last for days
Ignore the percent reading, the values your seeing are completely erroneous as they’re being provided by a suspected bad fuel gauge, if you were to turn the unit off and on again you would see a completely different % reading
OK, thanks.
I switched it off manually at 1% and when I switched it on it went Orange.
Forced it off and on again and it says 9%.
I am glad I do not have any more reboots … chip then!
Now I am flabbergasted!
I found cap between 17050 and 05 (guess a limiter resistor) knocked off!
I thought at first, it might have moved when replacing BQ a long time ago, but it was actually pulled off - no melting, had to replace solder as well, quite oxided.
Maybe while cleaning or refitting PCB.
I am shocked, because I am the kind of person that checks and rechecks.
Re-connected original battery now that was at 78% and charging fine. Then I wil leave it discharging again, to see what happens.
Going to repair something else now.
Discharging taken hours, seemed fine then re-charged at about 80%…
Talking about docking now
Went home as my workshop TV is old, home one too but better!
Connected to TV using ‘hdmi adaptor’ at 480, 720, 1080 and I can see it on TV
On 1080, suddenly joy-con did not work
Unplugged switch and went orange
All this after 1-2 minutes
I pw-off for 12s
Switched on OK reconnected to TV and after 30 seconds went orange again on 1080
I pw-off for 12s
Set on 720 nothing happend when connecting
Turned USB-c connector and Switch to TV but joy-con did not work again, no orange screen
Anyway, one side works, which probably is the side Dock cannot connect with.
Connected to TV using ‘Nintendo dock’, not working.
Therefore need USB-c extension - I thought I had one, coming on Monday fully connected 10-15Gb one.
So, it seems it does work and only on one side as it should be - so connections wrong in Switch? I am sure they are OK, but …
Customer is happy without the Docking - many do not use it, but said to try if I can fix that too.
Dock only uses one side I believe the top connections A1-12, right?
Looking on PCB PI3USB with USB-C connector to our side…
I have SBU1 on 1st coil second line and TX1+ and TX1- on 1st and 2nd lines on 3rd coil
Is it TX1-/+ or SBU1 that makes the switch on TV or both?
POWER ---------------
This morning did not switch on with battery at 3.9v, same if connect original PSU both sides.
Connecting 5v PSU it draws 0.470A as usual - not coming on.
Swapped connector = same.
Disconnected and reconnected battery then Nintendo PSU and battery gauge comes on charging and shows 74%, which I think is about correct at 3.9v
Left discharging and after it did discharge at 70% in 15 minutes, I went to switch screen on and it is not coming on.
Battery at 3.94v - disconnect/reconnect battery = all OK!
Is Power gauge deciding if Switch can come on? i.e. the disconnection/reconnection of battery makes it work again.
I did not replace it yet as all seemed OK since replaced battery and fixed that cap near 17050.
No fast drain or discharging while on charge, so I thought it is OK.
I am now changing 17050, but the cap in between 17050 and 05 jumped off my tweezers as I was soldering back on!
Anybody knows Value?
Thanks
If I am not wrong on 17050 datasheet it seems to be a 0.1µF
… and as usual I did not have a 0.1µF in 0201 package!
Awaiting arrival … then will get a book of 0201 from China soon.
You’ll be able to find that cap on just about any other donor board (not just Switch) as it’s common as muck value.
Though, from memory, pretty sure it’s just a bypass cap and would not cause the symptoms you were seeing, prehaps there was corrosion below the IC which the heat resolved and/or the joints were bad
Take a close look at the fuel gauge for any cracks/chips if there is any it needs replaced for sure 
Your orange screen issues are likely wifi IC related
Yes it can do depending on the fault
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I have had no time to look at this Nintendo, should do today.
I am still trying to understand why it does not dock.
Got the USB-C 10-15Gb extesion and will try that too.
But what if it works the other way around - also knowing USB-C port wiring connections are ok?
I did replace 17050 because I noticed Switch not coming on anymore, it draws 0.470 on both sides etc.
Still the same, but upon checking the BQ chip, on top pin that should measure 302, I read 201 - all other pins are fine, according to Calvin’s drawings. Alsoo ther side on 17050 they are OK in iode mode!
MAybe I should replace BQ again?
Pff - it feels like working on a ‘soft-cake’ ! 
Addition … if all the problems I have been having are to do with the Wi-Fi chip, mmm … I am not sure I am capable to re-flow or replace (do not have one anyway)
I went back on this Switch and the charging/discharging ‘seems’ ok, but when I left it charging and came back after a couple of minutes, the Switch was off!
I had to press on/off button, get logo twice and comes on!
I checked in the settings but I do not see anything that should not be as it is - I guess it is probably me - the problem! hahahahaha
After I went into settings and tried to do something - I do not remember, it started to stay on and just do the normal dimming. Screen comes ON normally when disconnecting or connecting charger when screen is black - not off - so detection is correct. Pfff
Got the all connected male/female 1m USB-C extension and YES, it works on the dock - even on old TV , but one side only - so it means USB-C wiring is wrong? (got a new TV at home, will bring older one here after repaired it - less old than this one!)
I really am flabbergasted, if it needs changing wiring connections - but how exactly? I do have ‘correct’ scribbled diagram I can follow if any one can help me with correct changing needed.
Should I swap tx1- and + or what? I am completely lost one on the dock problem. Wish to fix this at least - it makes all the difference from the user side, I guess!
- Orange screen, the only times I had it was whe nusing ‘old’ battery or at home when I tested it with dock (on one side, but stil had old battery in!) battery battery battery …
I had the Orange screen once today, but with old battery and I tried feezing Wi-Fi area - not directly the chip - did not wish to push temperature down too much at once. Just over the shield a lot of freeze-it, no change.
Internet: I cannot detect my Wi-Fi - which is strong - got 2 routers around - neither detected, therefore this might be a sign of Wi-Fi chip not working or just me not capable to connect?
Either automatically not detected or manually added - no change.
I mainly wish to fix the dock bit if possible, then will tell customer about the Wi-Fi - possibly’ not working. He has already a list of Wi-Fi connection and it might work at his home - do not know.
Wow, this post is long!
Just noticed…
The FASTER charger is not that fast any more!
So, I connected the slow charger 5v and only draws 100mA - battery is at 72%
I guess I ‘might’ have messed up or not, the 17050, as 'also battery is going down again!
In L4T Ubuntu?
You can verify the fuel gauge by checking the stats in Hekate once again, feel free to post an image if you want me to verify
No wifi and orange screen really does indicate the IC is bad, you can attempt a reflow first to see if it resolves or atleast temporarily resolves the issue, just add flux bring up to reflow (you can check by nudging a nearby cap, you don’t have to touch/nudge the IC directly) point your gun away from the LCD connector, 400C and low air and you’ll be fine
Thanks will do the re-flowing and I will certainly not touch the Wi-Fi IC, do not wish to mess-up the multi connections! Never done one as large yet.
Regarding the Hekate - maybe that was an other Thread (I think I read that one).
I am not used to run LT4 / Hetake (although I do have a PC dual boot with Ubuntu LT20 - I have not played for a long time with Linux).
Eventually I will find a thread with Hekate … a How to for ‘old’ newbies! 