[Nintendo Switch Oled] Shorted Capacitor near M92T36

https:// imgur(dot)com/gallery/1RS2CVo

Can anyone help me figured out what causing short on that capacitor near M92T36? I’ve pulled out M92 ic and Max77812 but the short still remains

It has 22.8ohm resistance so it’s not a dead short

Does it mean the CPU/Ram was faulty? Or it could be something else?

I don’t have an OLED handy to check but afaict that cap is on 1V8PDR, so it seems you have a soft short on that rail.

Lots of things on this rail I’m afraid such as SoC, Ram, EMMC, and the list goes on.

What’s the cause of the short? is it liquid damaged? failed modchip install?

I bought it blue screen at first.

The seller said the console became hot and the screen flickering when plugged in with the original charger but stuck at blue screen when plugged in with 5v charger

When I plug the original charger and observe the board there’s 1 component around M92T36 get extremely hot (it has K03 code on top of the component I believe, pulled out that component but the short still remains) and the board won’t turn on anymore.

The board drawing 0.07A without battery plugged in

Should i try pulling out RAM/EMMC or should I observe something else that possibly causing the short?

I see, LCD connector has pins for 1V8PDR, did you check for any signs of bent pins or corrosion inside, or any damage in general?

I’m guessing your referring to the mosfet, but can you take a pic and highlight it / where it was on the board so I can see.

k, don’t plug the board back in or connect battery until the short is cleared as you could cause more damage / issues.

No, not yet, blindly pulling stuff won’t help.

What you can do in the meantime is, provided your meter has the resolution… put your meter in resistance and put your black probe on ground (copper through hole pads for the USB are a good choice, note copper and not the USB steel itself) and maintain that ground throughout, then with your red probe put that anywhere 1V8PDR shows up, ie. at the inductor by the main max PMIC, on the cap next to the EMMC, SD connector, M92, the cap/s near Ram and the cap/s on the SoC wafer on this rail too etc etc, you will measure somewhere in the region of 22 ohms at all these points but there will me minor differences (again provided your meter has the resolution) note all the readings and let me know, the lowest reading will be pointing closer towards the culprit.

Ok then, I’ll be updating the reading value and let you know, thank you very much!

Oh btw, should i put max77812 back before measuring?

And also there’s knocked component right here: https: //imgur(dot)com/gallery/Ufj2yaD
https: //imgur(dot)com/gallery/vhOnYLM

The solder pad on the component was fell off so i was unable to reattach the component

Will it affecting the result?
If it does, can you help me identify the specification of the component?

As i have a donor nintendo switch lite board so hopefully i can harvest the component from there

No, leave it off for now so not to muddy the waters.

Sorry I don’t have a OLED handy here and can’t tell from the image what that IC is which does appear to have minor damage and probably should be swapped. I’ll post your images here directly and hopefully someone with an OLED can chime in a let you know what it is.


In regards to the inductors, given the way they’ve broken off I can only guess that the cause for the faults, particularly BSOD is as a result of drop damage, at least that explains that.

Don’t worry about putting the inductors etc back on just yet either, if we can get to the bottom of whats causing that 22 ohms short to ground then you can worry about repairing / repopulating the board later.

Also can see heat damage to connectors and rework of audio IC amongst others, what exactly have you have and haven’t done to this board? I need to know incase you’ve caused an issue.

The LCD connector looks good

Here’s the position of the component
https:// imgur. com/gallery/h6ygg4o

Can you help me pinpoint on which caps should I put my red probe exactly?

Becuse I don’t have any schematic about where 1V8PDR shows up and totally blind with oled board except for modding point🙇‍♂️

I’ve took some pictures and uploaded to my gdrive to help you helping me identify the culprit, here’s the link, just let me know if you need edit access
https:// drive.google. com/drive/folders/1wshutHOCDUQt0j3WME3QxMpUttISUIKE

I’ve tried to reflow and took some components off to check where’s the culprit is but no luck, some of them are Audio IC, MAX77812, MAX77620H, BQ, and M92T36, I did reflow the SoC and the RAM without took it out of the board, but I haven’t did something to the EMMC

I’ll come back to this later on as this has common connections nearby and elsewhere which might also have issues.

At the locations I described, just look for the approximate 22 ohm short to ground and you know your on the right spot or put your meter on continuty and buzz it out directly at the locations mentioned :slight_smile:

You don’t need board views or schematics for this, this is simple stuff, you can do this :+1:

In future don’t do this, you only stand to make the problem worse by randomly reflowing IC’s or removing and replacing components when you don’t have any indicators / idea as to what the cause is. As is, the waters are now muddy ontop of the original fault.

I think you got lucky in this case of the SoC and I see no damage to it ie. die resin still looks good and greyish in color, don’t reflow it again :slight_smile:

Looks off, how are you reballing these?

Thank you very much! :slightly_smiling_face:

I’ve found several points that has 22ohm value, one of them was located here https:// drive.google. com/file/d/1xjfyywyDGP5tmVhTzb-UPP8i32eKivee/view?usp=drivesdk
And also some caps located on top of the SoC

Do you need all the values of mentioned locations in detail or just several location with similar value close to 22ohm?

And quick question, if the caps value was below 1ohm does it means a dead short? Because I’ve found several caps that has value below 1ohm🥲 one of them was caps around small IC below EMMC located here https:// drive.google. com/file/d/1xhj9YXEtI67pLWPNHXrjPDsGo1cCAPR0/view?usp=drivesdk and around Audio IC

Ok noted🫡

I did reball that IC using 0.25 leaded solder balls

Just the locations mentioned, and just the caps/components/pins (choose one for each area) at the approximate 22ohms reading relative to ground, just to give us a bit of a map and hone in on the area which represents the lowest vaue. As mentioned, maintain a consistent ground throughout and note the readings to the digit :+1:

Yeah, pretty well

Can you highlight the caps in question?

Looks a little skewed, did you wick the IC and board prior to reballing? If you didn’t, don’t worry, you can address this later if it’s an issue.