I believe You. Does this mean that I have 2 bad DMM or that I have 2 bad Switch board where one of them works? 
Iâd first verify your meter by measuring on some other known good board, if you get the same readings on a third or fourth board then perhaps your meter is not behaving as expected.
Otherwise, if after removing the M92 the results donât change, not always itâs typicallly Ram or SoC 
though there is far more on this rail
Finally I have it 11kOhm. But this is really weird. I cannot consistently measure it but Ihave no idea whyâŠ
Donât worry too much about this, resistancce is a lot more fidgety than other measurments in circuit.
Back to the drawing board
But it annoys me 
My Fluke might be dead 
With my Metex I can measure the 11kOhm.
If after a certain amount of time I measure with the Metex at first it shows 2kOhm, if I just remove one of the probe and put back it shows each and every time afterwards 11kOhm. This is super weirdâŠ
haha iâm sure your fluke is fine, probably stray charge elswhere altering measurments, and as i mentioned earlier measuring in cicuit like this it touchy.
11K is a good reading on this rail. What are your readings on the other rails IE: the other inductors relative to ground surrounding the main max PMIC?
Left from the 1,8V raill is 1,4V if I am not mistake. It is a few houndred kOhm
The one on the left is the 1V it is only 35Ohm. On the good board it is 52Ohm.
On the bottom left 1,1V which shows also a few houndred kOhm (with the Fluke this is also only 1,3kOhm).
On hte max belongs to the CPU I have 140ohm. On the left from the CPU on the other Max IC there is 42ohm (this one is around 60ohm on the good board) .
Your measurments seem fine afaict
You can reinstall the EMMC module now, after is it still booting in RCM state without jig?
What voltage do you measure at one of the inductors here after prompting to boot?
Yes, I plug in the USB and tegra immediately shows the following:
0V, non of the max IC booting up on the front.
I am thinking that I will measure with my oscilloscope all the voltages around the MAX IC on hte back to see if tehy are stable.
Itâs normal to have 0V on the output here while in an RCM state.
I thought you may no longer be In RCM as the current was exceeding 400mA earlier
Might be worth checking diode/resistance at the EMMC connector and see if a line is a miss
I can measure pretty much the same readings like a found here in the forum (picture).
Hmm a tough one, are you getting VIN at the TMP IC?
This seems to have the same symptoms as a mismatched EMMC or mismatched FW/fuse count etc but itâs hard to say without being able to launch a payload.
Do you mean the Temperature IC next to the joy-con connector? There I hav 3,3V at pin 1 yes.
thatâs the one
hmm at a bit of a loss with this one then, likely not the issue but the fuel guage tests fine on the surrounding components?
Failing that, you may have to wait until you get a modchip in order to rule out the EMMC etc
Yes, everything measures good around the fuel gauge.
By the way how do you have these hell amount of information? You definetly deeply studied the Switch 
I would also like to reach a higher level once but as I see I am far away 
I have jsut startedâŠ
Just pick it up as Iâm repairing them, i never get the easy ones anymore and they typically have gone through many hands and many techs before me which kinda forces you to figure out the more complex stuff.
Haha i wish that was the case but Iâm pretty lazy, i think when you work on more complex boards and then start working on a switch itâs pretty simplistic by comparison, even without boardviews or schematics though all computers, consoles, laptops all follow the same principle and largely the same diagnostic process, once you get familiar with one youâll be able to apply your knowledge elsewhere, your getting there, donât worry
I bought now 7-8 in the last couple of month and all of them were already tempered with. I just do it for fun as a hobby. I also made a few Youtube videos jsut for fun and to help others with my little knowledge. I do not repair the stuff of others like a service.
I am an electrical engineer and after the work this is so relaxing and fun I only have a little experience in this field yet. I still have to get used to it, to learn the technics. This is why I really aprreciate your help. Figuring out everything alone would not be easy and extremely time consuming.
What disappoints me the most is that the last 3 I bought I could not repair. 2 of tehm with BLOD and now this one with most probably a corrupt EMMC. I miss now a little bit the success
Your more qualified than I am I have a few electircal engineering books here (AKA the door stops 
) and some of the equations in there are enough to make your head spin.
This can be down to a few things, SoC, Ram, main PMIC or fuel gauge or EMMC data corruptions⊠more often then not though itâs the fuel gauge as itâs so fragile and people prior have tossed the board around a bit, you can often tell if there are any knicks, chips or cracks in the die.
If itâs Ram, sometimes you can get lucky and put downward pressure on the modules (BiskeyDump payload is good for this) and the board will spring to life indicating poor contact as a result of bad balls or pad traces below. If theyâre physically or electrically bad youâll often be able to tell by testing the two rails which feed them resistance relative to ground.
EMMC, if itâs unpatched you can rule it out by using Choi or EMMCHaccGen to re-gen the FW.
SoC and main PMIC is a bit harder to rule out and test but more often than not itâs just that theyâre dead or the pads below them have either been ripped/tore, or suffered liquid damage.